Introduction to Brandenburg
Brandenburg wraps around Berlin like a green embrace, offering a striking contrast to the capital's urban intensity. This expansive state of nearly 30,000 square kilometers is characterized by over 3,000 lakes, extensive forests, meandering rivers, and flat to gently rolling terrain shaped by Ice Age glaciers. With a population of just 2.5 million—making it one of Germany's most sparsely populated states—Brandenburg provides space, tranquility, and natural beauty just minutes from one of Europe's most dynamic cities.
The state's unique geography as an "enclave state" surrounding Berlin creates fascinating dynamics. Many Brandenburg residents commute to Berlin for work while enjoying lower housing costs and access to nature. Conversely, Berliners flock to Brandenburg on weekends for hiking, cycling, boating, and escaping urban pressures. This symbiotic relationship benefits both regions while maintaining Brandenburg's distinct rural-provincial character.
Brandenburg's capital, Potsdam, stands as one of Germany's most beautiful cities, its UNESCO-listed palaces and gardens rivaling Versailles in splendor. Beyond Potsdam, Brandenburg rewards exploration with the unique Spreewald wetlands (a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve where mailmen still deliver letters by punt boat), medieval towns like Brandenburg an der Havel, and the Lower Oder Valley National Park along the Polish border—Germany's only wetland national park.
This is a land where history resonates through Prussian palaces, Cold War military installations, and medieval monastery ruins. Where nature dominates—forests cover nearly 40% of the state, and waterways create a paradise for kayakers, sailors, and fishermen. For travelers seeking peaceful countryside, royal heritage, and outdoor adventures within easy reach of Berlin, Brandenburg delivers unexpected rewards.
History: Historical Foundations
Brandenburg's history centers on the rise and legacy of Prussia, the militaristic kingdom that united Germany under Prussian leadership in 1871. The region takes its name from the medieval city of Brandenburg an der Havel, founded in 928 AD and serving as the seat of the Margraviate of Brandenburg.
The Hohenzollern dynasty, which would eventually rule all of Germany, established control of Brandenburg in 1415. Under their rule, the margraviate expanded territorially and grew in power, eventually becoming the Kingdom of Prussia in 1701. While Berlin served as the capital, Potsdam emerged as the Hohenzollerns' favored residence—particularly for Frederick the Great (1740-1786), whose Sanssouci Palace epitomizes Enlightenment aesthetics and royal refinement.
Frederick the Great transformed Potsdam into "Prussia's Versailles," commissioning palaces, parks, and cultural institutions that reflected his philosophical interests, artistic tastes, and military achievements. His tolerance toward religious minorities attracted French Huguenots, who contributed to the region's cultural and economic development. The distinctive architecture of the Dutch Quarter in Potsdam dates from this immigration period.
The Prussian era ended with World War I and the monarchy's abolition in 1918. The Potsdam Conference of 1945, where Allied leaders determined post-war Europe's fate, took place in Cecilienhof Palace—one of history's most consequential meetings occurring in a Brandenburg palace.
Following German division, Brandenburg became part of East Germany (GDR), experiencing socialist transformation of agriculture (collectivization into large state farms) and industrialization in select cities. Potsdam served as an important GDR military and administrative center. The Berlin Wall's construction in 1961 brutally severed connections between Brandenburg and West Berlin, reunited only after 1989.
Since reunification, Brandenburg has undergone significant economic transformation, facing challenges of post-industrial restructuring while developing tourism, renewable energy (Brandenburg is a leader in wind power), and sustainable agriculture. The state has successfully positioned itself as Berlin's green complement—close enough for convenience, distinct enough to preserve unique character.
Natural Landscapes and Geography
Brandenburg's landscape, while lacking dramatic elevation changes, offers subtle beauty shaped by glacial action during the last ice age. The retreating glaciers left behind a distinctive topography of shallow valleys, sandy soils, numerous lakes, and wetlands that define the state's character.
The Lake Districts
Over 3,000 lakes dot Brandenburg's surface—a density surpassed in Europe only by Finland and parts of Scandinavia. The largest lake entirely within Brandenburg, Lake Schwielochsee, covers 13 square kilometers. The Mecklenburg Lake District extends into northern Brandenburg, offering interconnected waterways perfect for multi-day boat trips without ever encountering the same landscape twice.
These lakes provide recreational opportunities: swimming in summer, ice skating in cold winters, sailing, kayaking, and fishing. Many lakeshores remain remarkably undeveloped, with protected natural areas allowing wildlife to thrive. Otters, white-tailed eagles, cranes, and beavers inhabit these wetland ecosystems.
The Spreewald: UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
Southeast of Berlin, the Spreewald represents Brandenburg's most unique landscape—a wetland labyrinth where the Spree River branches into hundreds of channels (Fließe) creating a 970-square-kilometer network of waterways. Since 1991, UNESCO has recognized the Spreewald as a Biosphere Reserve for its ecological significance and cultural heritage.
The Sorb people, a Slavic minority, have inhabited the Spreewald for centuries, maintaining linguistic and cultural traditions distinct from German mainstream culture. Traditional architecture, customs, and Sorbian language signs reflect this heritage. The Spreewald is famous for pickled gherkins (Spreewälder Gurken), a regional specialty with protected geographical indication status.
Exploring the Spreewald by traditional punt boat (Kahn) or kayak offers an unforgettable experience—gliding through narrow channels under canopies of alder and willow trees, passing traditional farmhouses accessible only by water, where the modern world feels centuries away.
Forests and Nature Parks
Forests cover approximately 40% of Brandenburg, dominated by pine trees growing in the sandy glacial soils. While these commercial pine forests lack the romance of mixed deciduous forests, they provide important habitats and recreational spaces. Brandenburg established 15 nature parks and 3 biosphere reserves, protecting over 30% of the state's area—an impressive commitment to conservation.
The Lower Oder Valley National Park along the Polish border protects one of Central Europe's last pristine river floodplains, supporting exceptional biodiversity. Each spring, thousands of migratory birds stop here, creating spectacular natural displays. The Schorfheide-Chorin Biosphere Reserve north of Berlin preserves ancient beech forests, glacial lakes, and rare wildlife including ospreys and black storks.
Must-Visit Landmarks and Attractions
Sanssouci Palace and Park: Frederick's Paradise
Sanssouci Palace (literally "without worry") represents the pinnacle of German Rococo architecture and landscape design. Frederick the Great personally sketched the original plans for this summer palace, completed in 1747 on vineyard terraces with sweeping views across Potsdam. The intimate single-story palace, with its distinctive green-gold dome and curved wings, reflects Frederick's personal tastes—elegant but not ostentatious, designed for intellectual pursuits rather than courtly display.
The palace's interior showcases Rococo decoration at its finest: the oval Marble Hall with trompe-l'œil ceiling paintings, the Concert Room where Frederick played flute compositions he composed himself, and the intimate library filled with French philosophy volumes. The adjoining 300-hectare park contains additional palaces (including the larger Neues Palais built to demonstrate Prussian wealth after the Seven Years' War), Chinese House tea pavilion, Roman Baths, and numerous sculptures and fountains.
Visiting Sanssouci requires advance planning—only limited visitors are admitted per day via timed tickets. Book online weeks ahead for summer visits. The park itself is free to explore and enchanting in any season, from spring tulips to autumn foliage to winter's stark beauty.
Potsdam's Old Town and Dutch Quarter
Beyond Sanssouci, Potsdam rewards exploration with its beautifully restored historic center. The Brandenburg Gate (not to be confused with Berlin's more famous gate) anchors the pedestrianized center, leading to the reconstructed City Palace housing the state parliament—a controversial but impressive recreation of a baroque masterpiece destroyed in GDR times.
The Dutch Quarter (Holländisches Viertel) comprises 134 red-brick buildings constructed in the 18th century for Dutch craftsmen invited to Potsdam. Today these charming townhouses host galleries, cafés, antique shops, and restaurants—one of Potsdam's most atmospheric neighborhoods for strolling and people-watching.
Babelsberg Palace and Film Studios
Babelsberg Palace, a neo-Gothic castle overlooking the Havel River, served as the summer residence for Kaiser Wilhelm I. Its parkland, designed by the legendary landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné, connects to Sanssouci via a picturesque riverside path.
Adjacent to the palace, Studio Babelsberg ranks as Europe's oldest large-scale film studio, operational since 1912. It produced German cinema classics including "Metropolis" and "The Blue Angel," and continues hosting international productions today. The Filmpark Babelsberg visitor experience offers studio tours, film sets, stunt shows, and exhibitions celebrating German cinema history.
Brandenburg an der Havel: Medieval Core
The city that gave the state its name preserves a medieval core with impressive cathedral architecture. The twin-spired St. Peter and Paul Cathedral contains centuries of art and history, while the Old Town and New Town islands in the Havel River maintain cobblestoned charm. Far less touristy than Potsdam, Brandenburg an der Havel offers authentic provincial German atmosphere and excellent waterfront restaurants.
Chorin Monastery
This 13th-century Cistercian monastery ruins, about 50 kilometers northeast of Berlin, ranks among Northern Germany's finest examples of red-brick Gothic architecture. The roofless church remains remarkably intact, its soaring walls and pointed arches creating a romantic, contemplative atmosphere. The grounds host summer classical music concerts—hearing Bach or Vivaldi in this medieval setting creates unforgettable evenings.
Local Cuisine and Regional Specialties
Brandenburg's cuisine reflects its agricultural heritage and Prussian history, emphasizing hearty, unpretentious fare based on locally available ingredients. While less distinctive than Bavaria or the Rhineland, Brandenburg offers its own culinary traditions worth discovering.
Regional Dishes
Spreewälder Gurken (Spreewald gherkins) represent Brandenburg's most famous culinary export. These pickled cucumbers, grown and processed according to traditional methods, enjoy protected geographical indication status. The unique taste results from the Spreewald's soil, water, and centuries-refined recipes. These aren't just any pickles—they're a cultural icon.
Kartoffelsuppe (potato soup) appears on menus throughout Brandenburg, a warming, filling dish that sustained farmers and laborers through harsh winters. Recipes vary by family and region, but typically include potatoes, vegetables, sausage or bacon, and herbs.
Teltower Rübchen are small, sweet turnips from the Teltow region south of Berlin, cultivated since the 18th century. Goethe praised them, and they remained a delicacy served at royal tables. Nearly forgotten during the 20th century, local farmers have revived cultivation, and high-end restaurants now feature them seasonally.
Fish and Game
Brandenburg's lakes and forests provide fresh fish and wild game. Pike, perch, eel, and carp from local waters appear on menus, often simply prepared to highlight freshness. Venison and wild boar from Brandenburg forests feature in traditional game dishes, particularly during autumn and winter hunting seasons.
Sorbian Culture and Food
In the Spreewald, Sorbian culinary traditions add unique elements. Plinsen (potato pancakes with various toppings), Glinjeny (a potato soup), and special Easter traditions (elaborately decorated eggs) reflect this distinct cultural heritage. Visiting during Sorbian festivals offers opportunities to experience these customs firsthand.
Outdoor Activities and Recreation
Brandenburg's greatest strength as a destination lies in outdoor recreation opportunities—more varied and accessible than virtually any German state relative to its size.
Cycling
Brandenburg is a cyclist's paradise. The flat terrain, extensive network of paved cycle paths, and scenic routes make cycling the ideal way to explore. The Berlin-Copenhagen cycle route passes through northern Brandenburg, while the Spree-Radweg follows the Spree River through the Spreewald. Numerous bike rental shops and cycle-friendly accommodations support multi-day tours.
Water Sports
With over 3,000 lakes and extensive river systems, water sports dominate summer activities. The Havel River and connected lakes offer week-long houseboat rentals requiring no boating license—floating hotels exploring the waterways at a leisurely pace. Kayaking and canoeing opportunities abound, from gentle family-friendly paddles to challenging multi-day wilderness expeditions. Stand-up paddleboarding has become increasingly popular on larger lakes.
Hiking
While lacking mountains, Brandenburg offers pleasant forest and lakeside hiking. The 66 Lakes Trail around the outskirts of Berlin provides a circumnavigation of the capital through Brandenburg nature. The Fläming region south of Potsdam features gentle hills (by Brandenburg standards) with marked trails through forests and past medieval villages.
Travel Tips and Practical Information
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April-June): Nature awakens, birds migrate through in spectacular numbers, and weather becomes pleasant for outdoor activities. Sanssouci's gardens bloom magnificently.
Summer (July-August): Peak season for water sports and camping. Lakes reach swimmable temperatures. Advance booking recommended for popular areas.
Autumn (September-October): Fewer crowds, comfortable temperatures, and spectacular fall foliage in forests and parks. Crane migrations create natural spectacles.
Winter (November-March): Cold but peaceful. Palaces and museums remain accessible without summer crowds. Some years bring skating conditions on lakes.
Getting Around
Brandenburg is easily accessible from Berlin via S-Bahn, regional trains, and roads. Potsdam lies just 40 minutes from Berlin's center via S-Bahn. However, exploring rural areas and nature reserves requires a car or bicycle. Regional train connections exist but are less frequent than in more urban states.
Budget Considerations
Brandenburg is significantly more affordable than Berlin or Bavaria. Budget €60-90 per day for comfortable mid-range travel. Many nature activities (hiking, cycling, beach access) are free. Accommodations, especially in smaller towns, offer excellent value.
Hidden Gems
- Buckow: A small spa town in the Märkische Schweiz (March Switzerland) nature park with gentle hills, lakes, and charming Wilhelmine architecture.
- Tropical Islands: Europe's largest indoor tropical resort in a former aircraft hangar—controversial but impressively vast, with beach, pools, and year-round summer.
- Rheinsberg Palace: A beautiful rococo palace on a lake north of Berlin, less touristy than Sanssouci, where Frederick the Great spent happy years before becoming king.
- Beelitz-Heilstätten: Abandoned hospital complex now partially open for tours on elevated walkways through decaying buildings—haunting medical history meets urban exploration.
Conclusion
Brandenburg rewards travelers who value nature, tranquility, and historical depth over urban excitement. While Berlin pulses with contemporary energy, Brandenburg preserves landscapes and legacies that speak to longer historical rhythms—Prussian kings cultivating enlightenment ideals in palatial gardens, Sorb farmers navigating centuries-old waterways, migratory birds following ancient flight paths.
This is a state that doesn't shout for attention but reveals its charms to those who pause: the play of light on a forest lake at sunset, the harmony of Sanssouci's architecture and landscape, the simple pleasure of gliding silently through Spreewald channels, the profound quiet of a Brandenburg forest broken only by woodpecker calls. For visitors seeking respite from urban intensity while remaining within reach of Berlin's cultural offerings, Brandenburg provides the perfect balance—accessible yet remote, historically rich yet naturally pristine, familiar yet perpetually capable of surprise.